BOB MACKIE "Diamonds" Dress
#3300 - c. 1975 Original BOB MACKIE Silver Beaded Fringe Dress Worn by CAROL CHANNING! First off, I love what I found online...
Post Title → CAROL CHANNING
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Evening dresses of the 1820s were decorated with all types of fancy borders including rouleaux, the bands of bias cut fabric stuffed with wool or cotton that would provide additional body and shape at the hemline. In addition the hemline is decorated with a pinked silk ruffle above the rouleaux and above that a scalloped flounce accented with satin appliques that appear to be flower buds about to open. The dress has a slightly empire waistline with the bodice fitted with a series of three vertical darts on both sides of the bust.
The neckline is rounded and set off by delicate hand made lace and satin trim. The satin is carried around the neckline and extends in layered "petals" across the puffed short sleeves. Each petal is edged in lace and the sleeves are decorated with the same bud shapes and scalloped edging as is found at the hemline. Back closure with hooks and eyes. The sleeves are lined with a fine silk gauze that is deteriorated but this is not noticeable when on display.
The condition of this gown is remarkable! There is no shattering of the silk and only a few minor holes about the size of a pencil eraser are noted, a couple of which have been backed with tiny pieces of matching silk. There are also a few scattered and minor organic discolorations of the silk which do not detract and should not be unexpected on a piece of this age. Faint crescents of underarm discoloration are also present but again, do not detract. No noted weakness or deterioration of the fabric other than noted.
Ms. Madelyn Shaw (the Associate Curator of Costume and Textiles at the Rhode Island School of Design and Art) wrote a research paper on the Tirocchi Sisters, and touched upon this enigmatic designer, MARGUERITE, (with grateful assistance from another unpublished research paper by Filomena D'Elia of Washington, D.C..) I wish to thank and credit both of these ladies for this important information below on Marguerite's little known life plus works, to be able to describe the background of this special designer made this wonderful gown.
Ms. Shaw referred to this early, important, but nowadays not generally well-known but successful designer of the 1910s -1920s- late 1930's, Marguerite, (later on known as Madame Marge'). Marguerite's dressworks are noted in the research to be documented within the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York (in their Special Collections Library) possessing some of her original gown design sketches, trim clippings, and even dated photos of Marge' Models from 1921's, R. Mallinson's Blue Book of Silks. In the 1910s, Madame Marge' (or, Marguerite as we know her from this time period) appeared often in the American Silk Journal, and was featured for her excellent use, execution and styling of American silks.... MARGUERITE even won the Gossard Trophy from the Fashion Art League of America, (a very big deal in those days) for Excellence in Dress Design an amazing THRICE in a row (1915 to 1918)! For apparelling Ms. Marilyn Miller (of the Ziegfield Follies fame), Marguerite (Madame Marge') was awarded the Mallinson Cup for Excellence in Stage Costume Design, standing on her own alongside the works of the famed Erte's fabulous Zeigfeld Follies designs. Ironically, even with Marguerite's tremendous good press over her career, she'd managed to maintain a low profile, and so is believed to have chosen and preferred to make her living designing clothing predominantly for an exclusive, word-of-mouth clientele... (her name is noted to have never appeared in fashion magazines of the era, such as Harper's Bazaar or Vogue.) Interesting fact to mention also that her story had never been published like many of her more famous female contemporaries suchlike, Lady Duff Gordon (Lucile Ltd.). Now that you know a bit about this wonderful designer, Marguerite, I believe you can only appreciate how remarkably elegant and substantial this example of her earliest 1910 dinner gowns from her truly was!The use and execution of the silks employed in this truly classic, Edwardian dinner gown are exceedingly in the Paris style fashion, with uncommon and beautiful styling... yet, very true to what is usually considered a much plainer period in American fashion. The magnificent Edwardian bodice has a pointedly dropped "V" (Gasp...to the waist!) with loosely pleated, Bretell oversleeves (loosely overblown panel sleeves, as I have seen similarly styled in a "May Manton" fashion pattern) trimmed in yards of hand-made, one-of-a-kind self-fabric, tubular, "Rolleaux" style leaf motif patterns, even with dangling epaulet balls on shoulders, and large Rolleaux patterns directly on the breasts! (Oh my!) Back is decorated much like the front, and closes with hook and eyes.
The net under bodice appears to be made primarily of deep ecru Reticella/ Cluny needlework over net in combination, mixed with insertions of ground net/ with satin-stitched, hand-embroidered flowers, Irish crochet medallions, and woven, hand-knotted shadow lace made in the Valenciennes lace style- in an ode to Fall season wearing- a flowers-to-seeds motif. Very ornate and striking. There's metallic ribbons outlining the throat area, and elbows, ending in fancy, lacy "flowered" Chevrons at elbows and wrists.The ebony-black, soft, silk gossamer sheer overlay of this resplendent Edwardian gown is trimmed profusely in a keyhole pattern of shiny and smooth, Glace' silk taffeta with many, large, padded needlework crochet balls, and large, leaf patterns of yards of Rolleaux hand-knotted trimming, and 1910's styled era tucked hem pleats! Notice the intricate pleated pintucking around the waist to form a very structured, but faux corset, perfectly?! Wow- is all I can say... Marguerite was a REALLY talented designer- the folds all lay perfectly, molding smoothly into the softly flowing skirt to train! There is no underlining to the skirt (never was) so a dark petticoat was worn with this dress.
The inner bodice is made of net, with flexible, cream, twilled silk taffeta liner. You can see Marguerite's tenacious hand stitches inside in black- (this whole gown is a virtual testament to the old school of hand styling...) she made silk taffeta pleats inside at underarms to fill out and acetuate the sides of the bust, and between the breasts to add to the feminine ideal of the "monobust" phenomenon that had been all the rage. All her inner seams are curvy and hand-finished, and has featherboned stays lined in silk twill. There's a lace "Modesty Panel that could (or not be) used by tightening down, and it's edged in original, sturdy, high quality pink, silk satin ribbon. The cream, woven grograin silk satin Petersham at the waist says, "Marguerite, 49 West 39th St., New York" and attached with shiny silk thread in an "X" pattern. Has a quality overall weight and touch to the hand. A decent size 4-5, tall! This is a "WOW WOW" antique Couture gown!First, there is a very sheer, ultra fine, silk gossamer gauze inside of the sleeves/ outer underarms that have some small tears/ wearing. This liner should just be removed (or, relined with china silk or cotton net if desired). Personally, removing the sheer should just be enough. The inside of the bodice netting had been well replaced some time ago (long before me) and this stabilized the inside well enough that it could actually be worn. (I wouldn't remove this net although it is not original to the gown... In this case, if you did not know it was not original, you might not even realize it, so this fact makes it really not worth removing...) All the ecru needle lace is slightly dingy and has a few, tea-colored, tiny spots. Metallic pieces are darkened with age- related tarnish. Ideally, if a talented needle woman removed these lacy pieces and carefully hand cleaned them (removing the sheer sleeve lining at the same time) then replaced these sections- this gown would have almost a new appearance otherwise- the other silks used still glisten with lustrous good health. (No dryness or dry rot.)
The black sheer silk has a few pinholes (as to be expected), and a few vintage, woven mends on skirt. On bodice and skirt there's 2-4 of the black crocheted balls missing- they are almost impossible to make out as missing as the designs are so intricate. One might be able to replace these or make some, or move a few of the others if desired...again, I consider this to be minor. Silk Petersham, and all steel hardware strong, good working order, no obvious looseness, rust or tarnish. A real prize! One of the prettiest 1910 gowns you are ever likely to see, ever.A love of vintage clothing can lead to a small home-based business. These old clothes are still easy to find and easy to resell them from home. Vintage, antique and used designer clothing has become very popular in recent years. Collectors are wearing these classic fashions from the past.
Rare pieces could earn their owners enough to cover a car or mortgage payment. Online auction houses show thousands of items everyday in these categories. Study those sites to get a sense of what to look for – what collectors are actually buying. With time and experience, the investor will learn the language of dress design, fabric and fashion. And there are also numerous books available on vintage clothing which will prove helpful.
Vintage clothing is a renewable resource and as products, they are still easily found on the cheap. Begin with a very small investment and experiment by listing it on an online auction site. Present the piece well. List all the details, measurements, label information, fabric type and flaws. Take excellent pictures without any fuzziness. Show the item at its best in a good clear manner. A dressmaker's dummy would be ideal.
Consignment clothing stores will happily accept good vintage pieces. They typically take thirty percent or more from the final retail price, so the consignee should set his or her prices accordingly. The consignor will check the item thoroughly for wear and note any flaws. These stores typically want items that people will wear, not simply own. It could take time for the item to sell. Three months sitting in a shop is long enough.
Circa 1960 designer and mod dresses are highly sought after and fortunately still easy to find. Try to stay away from anything that screams 1980s. The '30s and '40s were great fashion decades, and those clothes are being worn as well as collected. Many dealers make this era their niche, but it's fine to mix it up.
Drawing the line between polish and pretension is trickier, especially when last year’s costume can be this year’s classic, and next year’s yawn. Just consider the steady infiltration of 19th-century haberdashery into the 21st-century wardrobe. Garment after garment has arrived on the scene that one might think more Gilbert and Sullivan than Bergdorf and Goodman, only to be taken up by the young beards.
Not long ago, big brass-buttoned military coats looked a bit extreme. So did high-button, high-lapel vests and slim tweed trousers. And so did guys who tucked said trousers into high, old-fashioned hunting boots. Now these clothes (along with those ever-present beards and mustaches) look like downtown defaults compared with fall runway looks like cardinal-red tailcoats at Ralph Lauren, capes and bowlers at Alexander McQueen and knee breeches at Robert Geller.
As with home design, where curio cases, taxidermy and other stylish clutter of the Victorian era have been taken up by young hipsters, many of today’s popular men’s styles have their roots in the late 19th century. There are the three-piece suits once favored by mustachioed Gilded Age bankers; the military greatcoats and boots of Union officers; and the henley undershirts, suspenders, plaid flannel shirts and stout drill trousers worn by plain, honest farmers.
Just ask Taavo Somer, whose restaurant Freemans, with its mounted animal heads and antique oil landscapes, has been one of the trend’s most active petri dishes (and who lives the fantasy sufficiently to enjoy shooting skeet on weekends upstate). Even his eyebrows went up recently when he saw a young man dressed in a bowler, cape, breeches and knee socks on the Lower East Side.
“We’ve already seen the comeback of the butcher and the baker,” he said. “Next thing is going to be a hipster candlestick maker.”
The antiquarian aesthetic is far-reaching, with tendrils in the worlds of art (as in the work of the fashionable painter Walton Ford, opening Thursday night at the Paul Kasmin Gallery in Chelsea) and film (as in “There Will Be Blood,” “The Prestige” and, next month, “Sherlock Holmes”). But it has made its deepest inroads in interior design and men’s fashion. Just as in the late 1990s, when mid-century Modernism seemingly infiltrated every apartment, men’s wear shop and restaurant, this messier, cozier and more idiosyncratic Victorian dandyism is now reaching into all sorts of fashionable spots.
It decks the dark wood-paneled walls of the trendy Jane Hotel and the Bowery Hotel and A-list-y restaurants like the Spotted Pig and the Breslin. Somehow the look seems even more sincere in Brooklyn eateries like Vinegar Hill House and Marlow & Sons and in antique shops like Obscura Antiques & Oddities in the East Village and Luddite in Williamsburg.
Similarly, the look’s most popular components — tweedy vests, woolen trousers, henley undershirts, dark wool ties, scratchy cotton shirts — appear to have an added dose of authenticity when unearthed in tucked-away shops like Amoskeag XX and Against Nature on the Lower East Side, or Hollander & Lexer in Brooklyn. Often they are made in New York by small labels like Engineered Garments and Freemans Sporting Club, Mr. Somer’s line.
The photographer Mitch Epstein, who lives near the Freemans shop on the Lower East Side, said that the store and its aesthetic had so won him over that he recently bought a charcoal-plaid three-piece suit. “These are not the kind of clothes I was wearing,” he said. “I’m more high modern. But there’s a comfort and quality in them, a respect for what you wear and how you appear to others, but in a way that’s not heavy-handed.”
Part of the appeal, in fact, is in how the clothes relate not to the runways or the estates of Europe, but to America’s heartland in ways that few fashions do. Country and city men alike have rediscovered old-school American brands like Filson, Orvis, L. L. Bean and Duluth Pack. Obsolete hobbies like wet-plate photography are finding new enthusiasts; long-outmoded farming practices are being revived. Even deer hunting with old-fashioned muzzleloaded rifles, which have to be loaded with gunpowder, a musket ball and a ramrod, has come back in force in some states.
Who knows, maybe the troublesome comeback of the North American beaver population will lead to a new appreciation of beaver-fur hats. They would be welcome at Paul Stuart, where beaver collars adorn greatcoats worthy of Andrew Carnegie, or at the Harlem workshop of the stylish hatter Rod Keenan, who has been selling bowlers, derbies and, this season, even a handful of top hats.
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